Amritsar

During our travels we've been on some long hauls but everything paled in comparison to the 35 hour (1845 km's) trip from Mumbai to Amritsar. Two consecutive nights on a sleeper class train left us feeling pretty sorry for ourselves but in a cooler climate.

Amritsar is home to the Golden Temple, the spiritual and cultural center of the Sikh religion. If you're unsure what a Sikh looks like they normally sport turbans. The two most famous Sikhs we can think of are Harbhajan Singh and Monty Panesar - cricketers. We had heard you could stay with the Sikhs at the temple so off we went.

We found beds in the foreigners dorm and went to check out the temple. Normally we have to pay 30-40 times the locals rate to see anything in India so it was great that everyone can enter the temple for free. Note that all visitors must cover their hair and that the sun was blinding us!


Staying with the Sikhs blew us away. Each day thousands of people arrive stacked on the back of trucks like battery hens. Everyone is given shelter and access to washing facilities and the free canteen runs 24 hours a day. The entire system is funded by donations and manned by volunteers, talk about making things accessible to the people.

Keen to chow down with our fellow pilgrims we went and lined up at the canteen where we were given trays and mugs. Entering the dining hall the first thing that struck us was the lack of tables and chairs.


Everyone sits in rows and volunteers walk around with buckets of food which they dish up to the masses. Fascinated by the entire situation we wondered how they cleaned up spillages until we saw the man below.


The temple at night time is beautiful. It's not as hot and there are less people around making it the perfect time to go inside.


Amritsar is also very close to Wagah the only road border crossing between Pakistan and India. Sometimes called the Berlin wall of Asia every evening it plays host to the most ridiculous border closing ceremony you are likely to see. On one side hundreds of screaming Pakistani's chant "PAKISTAN" only to be met by a chorus of "HINDUSTAN" from the Indian contingent.

Described as chauvinism at its most camp and a display of carefully choreographed contempt words can't really describe it so its a good thing there is a video. The one below is well worth the four minutes it takes to watch it.



Random Fact: Every year the Golden Temple attracts more visitors than the better known Taj Mahal.

Highlights:
- Being off the train
- Sikh hospitality and organisation skills. If all of India was run with Sikh efficiency India would be a much easier place
- Watching how excited the other pilgrims are to be at the temple. For some it is a trip of a lifetime so everyone is in a good mood

Lessons Learned:
- If you are foreigner wanting to stay in the temple you absolutely must stay in the dedicated foreigner room. No if's, mights or maybes, this is a must.
- Showers are communal and some of the Indians (men) show an unsettling amount of interesting in you cleaning yourself...
- Arrive in Wagah well before dusk to ensure you get a good spot to view the closing